Delas Freres - a Rhone Classic
Thursday, November 18, 2010 at 10:33PM 
One of the Big 5 producers in the Northern Rhone, this family also boasts sites in the powerful South. But I was invited, with a few other guests, to join Jacques Grange, the winemaker, for a first look at the 2009 vintage of Condrieu, St Joseph white, Cotes du Rhone, Hermitage and Cote Rotie as well as new releases from recent vintages.
We were hosted at Pierre Koffmann's eponymous restaurant (he of the legendary 'La Tante Claire') at the Berkeley Hotel where, although it did not feature at this lunch, his signature pig’s trotter with chicken mousseline, sweetbreads and morels is on the menu and well worth a visit alone.
On this occasion we were treated to a menu choice, unusual for an event where the wine is the focus of attention, from which I had 'Escabeche de Rouget en Salade' - Salad of marinated baby red mullet - followed by 'Queue de Veau Provencal' - Veal tail Provencal - and though I, chastely, tried to turn down pudding my waiter leaned over and whispered 'I have a Honey Soufflé that Madame should try' in a way that was not possible to resist. And I was so glad I didn't.
Champagne Deutz Brut Classic NV
Terrifically leesy and with plenty of cream and layered texture. Lots of green fruit too which lingers pleasantly on the tongue. Also the mousse is just right, wonderful spike without any aggression at all.
Condrieu Clos Boucher 2009
100% Viognier in 1 & 2 yr old oak. This was left in barrel longer than usual because of the rich nature of the vintage, and was bottled 2 months later than usual. The parcel is right next door to Chateau Grillet.
Very intense, deeply savoury as well as that intense apricot fruit. Lush yet brightly lit from within. Very present - demands attention. A viscous texture and powerful finish.
Saint Joseph White Les Chailleys 2009
Wonderfully restrained nose of artichokes, peaches and some flint, even a touch of gun smoke following on its heels. A lovely elegant finish which lingers playfully.
Cotes-du-Rhone Saint Esprit 2009
A blend made predominantly of Syrah.
Very floral, violet nose. Strong sense of place evident in the glass. Stony, elegant, linear, great structure. Just enough, exactly enough. Not hugely long but very satisfying. Not a hearty country wine - far too elegant for that - but with that absolute place in your repertoire.
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine des Grands Chemins 2008
A challenging vintage where they contended with 350mm of rain 1 week before harvest - aaarrrrggghhhh!!! 1-3 year old oak. Only macerated for 10 days which is very short compared to normal practice. This wine comes exclusively from Delas Freres Estates.
On the nose initially a very strong impression of lead and pencil shavings with plenty of mineral and deep bramble, autumnal aromas. Wild strawberries lead the palate with enough acidity to keep it all super fresh in spite of the density.
Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette 2007
This is a blend from 3 plots: 'l'Ermite', 'le Sabot' and the, most famous, 'Les Bressards'.
The wine is rich and complex with layers of black fruit, spiciness and black olives, but did seem to lose it's acidity quite quickly.
Hermitage Les Bessards 2007
Limited to 500 cases every year.
Wonderfully complex and tight with fresh, elegant tannins and just there acidity. Decent alcohol, but a bit too noticeable? Big sweet spot, though, right in the middle. Fantastic actually, stays refreshing 'til the end.
Hermitage Les Bessards 2009
Fantastically ripe and ready, it's a bit forward but still feels fresh. Racy with a rich structure. The tannins are there but not obvious or intrusive at all. Really well-handled.
Cote-Rotie La Ladonne 2009
This is only made in exceptional years, and never exceeds 200 cases/year.
Deep, sumptuous, elegant, this is very special. And beautiful with the cheese...!
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